Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide puts professionally installed epoxy at about $4 to $10 per square foot nationally, with $3 to $5 of that being labor. HomeAdvisor reports an average garage coating job of about $2,526, with most falling between $1,650 and $3,494. Grinding off old paint, crack repair and the finish you pick move the total, so we price your floor after seeing it.

At HomeGuide's $4 to $10 per square foot range, 500 square feet of installed epoxy works out to about $2,000 to $5,000. HomeGuide lists 500 square feet of polyaspartic at about $2,500 to $6,000. Flakes, heavy repair and old coating removal add to those numbers.

Home Depot and Lowe's sell DIY epoxy kits, and HomeGuide puts premade kits at about $200 to $700. A kit can work on a clean, sound slab. The difference with a professional install is the prep: kits rely on etching, while we diamond grind the floor, repair it and apply thicker coats.

Yes. A 3D floor uses a printed image laid on the slab and sealed under thick clear epoxy, so the picture appears to have depth. Most homeowners who want a floor with depth choose metallic epoxy, which creates swirls and movement with pigment instead of a printed image.

Epoxy needs a dry, well-prepared slab and can peel if moisture or oil is trapped under it. Standard epoxy cures more slowly than polyaspartic (HomeGuide says up to a week for full cure), can yellow in sunlight without a UV-stable topcoat, and can be slick when wet unless texture is added. Each has a fix that should be planned from the start.

Resin coatings need the slab and the air warm enough to cure, and each product lists its own limits. HomeGuide recommends 60°F to 85°F for epoxy and describes polyaspartic as workable across a much wider range. In cold months we measure slab temperature, heat the space if needed, and reschedule if conditions are wrong.

No. Coating a slab and sealing cracks is not radon mitigation. K-State Research and Extension, quoting the Kansas Radon Program, says about one in four Kansas homes tests at or above the EPA action level, so testing before you finish a basement is worth doing.

HomeGuide's national range for a two-car garage is about $1,600 to $5,800 for epoxy and $2,000 to $6,900 for polyaspartic. HomeAdvisor puts the average garage coating job at about $2,526. Removing an old coating, repairing a flaking apron and adding a full flake move the price, so we quote after seeing the floor.

HomeGuide lists heavy-vehicle traffic on polyaspartic after about 24 to 48 hours, while solid epoxy can take up to seven days to fully cure. Cold slabs slow both down. We give you a specific time for your floor.

Usually because of prep. Kits rely on etching, which leaves weak or contaminated concrete and old sealers in place, and hot tires then pull the thin coat off. Grinding and a thicker system bond far better.

A smooth, glossy coat can be slick when wet. Full flake floors have built-in texture, and we can add an anti-slip aggregate to the topcoat of a solid-color floor, especially near the door where meltwater collects.

Yes, in most cases. Cracks and chips are ground out and filled before the base coat. A crack that keeps moving can reappear through any coating, so we point those out at the estimate and explain the options.

The speckle hides brine crust, sand and tire marks, and the chips add texture. A solid color looks sleeker but shows every mark.

Less than a smooth floor. We keep the clear coat thinner near the door, or add anti-slip grit, where meltwater collects.

Usually one to two days with a polyaspartic clear coat, longer with epoxy or on a cold slab. We give you a time for your floor.

Only if the old coating is bonded tight everywhere. If any of it is lifting, it comes off. If it is sound, we grind it so the new layers can grip.

If you need it back fast, or the door faces strong sun, polyaspartic earns its higher price. If budget comes first and the floor stays shaded, epoxy works. Many garages get an epoxy base with a polyaspartic top.

Often, yes. It tolerates cooler slabs than standard epoxy, but each product has a minimum. We take a slab temperature reading and add heat if needed.

Polyaspartic sets in minutes once mixed, so it needs a crew working quickly over fully prepped concrete.

HomeGuide puts residential polyaspartic floors at about 10 to 20 or more years. Prep quality, traffic and how much grit and brine the floor sees all change that.

Not over it. Black adhesive from mid-century tile should be tested first, since some contains asbestos. Once it is cleared safely, we grind to clean concrete and coat that.

Then the leak comes first. A coating can handle vapor with the right primer. It cannot hold back water flowing through a crack or the floor-wall joint.

No. Sealing a floor is not radon mitigation. K-State Research and Extension says about one in four Kansas homes tests at or above the action level, so test before you finish the space.

It depends on the product and the room temperature. We give you a written time for light use and for heavy furniture when we finish.

Yes, and it suits a garage where a car mostly sits. For a daily winter garage, it shows grit and dried brine quickly, so many people pick flakes there and save metallic for the basement.

No. A 3D floor is a printed picture under clear resin. A metallic floor has no image. Its depth comes from pigment moved by hand, so it looks more like stone or water.

Moisture work in the basement, crack repair, removing old paint or tile, and blending several colors. This Old House lists metallic at about $5 to $12 per square foot installed.

We can match the colors and the general style. The exact pattern forms as the resin moves, so your floor will be its own version.

HomeAdvisor puts commercial and industrial 100% solids systems at $12 or more per square foot and says high-traffic coatings add 20% to 30%. A lighter-duty shop can come in lower. We price your floor after we walk it.

Usually not the whole building. We coat one zone at a time and can work nights or weekends. The quote lists how long each zone is closed.

Yes, if the floor is concrete and the slab is warm enough for the product. In cold months we may bring in temporary heat or use a faster-curing topcoat. We check slab temperature and moisture first.

It depends on traffic. Forklift lanes and doorways wear first. Recoating those paths before the base shows through is far cheaper than redoing the floor.